Fachruddin Majeri Mangunjaya, Jakarta – We set off for a Bajau village on Kabalutan island, Palu from the port of Ampana, on Sulawesi's eastern peninsula. The journey was exhausting, but the still, clear waters of the Togean islands – which Kabalutan is among – was compensation enough.
The wooden houses of the Bajau people are roofed with palm leaves and built on stilts over the water. While each house has its own yard, the boundaries between them are often unclear.
The village has a population of approximately 2000, or 250 families, whose livelihoods depend on fishing. Kabalutan island is an offshore reef no more than three hectares in size. It is very hard to find fresh water there, which is mostly brought in from other islands, and vegetation comprises a couple of palm trees.
Fishing is the main source of revenue for the village. The Bajau traditionally dive for fish, but also catch them by trawling out at sea. However, in recent times, some fishermen have employed other methods – which are harmful to the environment – to catch fish, including the use of explosives and potassium cyanide.
"Cyanide fishing" has become popular with the increased trade of napoleon and grouper fish, which must be caught alive. The fish are transported to Palu to be exported to Hong Kong. The fish are briefly intoxicated before being revived, but the poison also kills coral, as well as plankton (microorganisms eaten by small fish) in the vicinity of its use.
"The poison may harm the environment within a one kilometer radius," said Khairul Anwar, a marine biologist with Conservation International Indonesia (CI), during a field visit to Kabalutan Island at the end of last September. Such harmful practices have allegedly been used in the area since the 1980s.
Mahmud, 45, explained that it was harder than ever to make a living. Fifteen years ago he could catch 20 kilograms to 25 kilograms of fish every time he went out to sea. "Before our catch was always sufficient, but now it isn't even enough to cover our costs," said the fisherman, who is also a teacher at Al-Khairat Islamic School.
He said that he used to fish just once a week, and spent the rest of the week teaching. His income from fishing was a lot more than the salary of a public servant of III C class (on an average of Rp 1.2 million per month). Now, he has to fish every night to make ends meet. "We cannot even catch sea cucumbers, let alone fish," he complained.
Guru Mahmud, a fisherman, has dedicated his life to teaching religion. Some 100 students attend his dirt-floored school. But his students can no longer afford the donation of Rp 1,000 a month, which they had previously given him to teach. "I don't mind if they can't pay, as long as I can still go out to sea," Guru said. Classes are held in the afternoon while he fishes at night to make a living.
He is thankful that people are now aware of the damage done by certain fishing methods. Fishermen of several villages have started to make efforts to save the Togean islands. "If we cannot overcome the problem, future generations will suffer. Where could they go to find fish?" Mahmud said.
A number of fishermen have established associations to curtail destructive fishing activities. The initiative started with the establishment of a Marine Conservation Area (DPL) by the people. Its management, as well as sanctions for violators, are stipulated under village regulations (PERDES). The conservation area in accompanied by another in Kilat Bay.
"We hope that such community efforts will set an example for others, so that the conservation areas expand," said Christoverius Hutabarat, M.Si., program manager of CI in Palu. The CI has been working on community empowerment in the area for several years and within Indonesia for seven.
Guru Mahmud explained that religion prohibits the destruction of the land and sea by humans. "I am just a regular line fisherman, I don't use bombs. Their lives are no better than mine. I have enough food. I also smoke like them. In fact, they face risks – some of them were hurt in an explosion, which they set off," he said.
[Fachruddin Majeri Mangunjaya is an environmental journalist with Conservation International Indonesia.]