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A beautiful resting place

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Today (Singapore) - January 19, 2008

Jessinta Tan, Solo – Astana Giribangun, a solemn and beautiful graveyard on the slope of Mount Lawu on the outskirts of Solo city, has been temporarily closed for what is said to be "routine cleaning".

But in all likelihood, the mausoleum, which is guarded by soldiers and military police, is being spruced up to receive the body of former Indonesian President Suharto should he pass away.

"It is just routine cleaning of the mausoleum. However, a landslide down the road has diverted some workers away to clean up that area instead," said Mr Sukirno, 55, who has been a caretaker of Astana Giribangun for 32 years.

He is in charge of 21 workers who are busy working within and around the cemetery. Mr Suharto's mother-in-law was the first person to be buried when it was built in 1976. Since then, Mr Suharto's father-in-law, elder sister-in-law and wife have also been laid to rest in the three-tiered building with wooden pillars and a stupa-like roof.

It is meant to be the final resting ground of Mr Suharto, who will be laid next to the body of his wife Siti Hartinah – also known as Madam Tien – who died in 1996. She was a minor member of the Solo royal family.

Not far away from Astana Giribangun is another mausoleum on higher ground – Astana Mangadeg, which houses three main chambers of past Javanese kings and about 150 other graves of members of royal families and their households.

The charitable foundation controlled by Mr Suharto's children to manage Astana Giribangun has built a road linking the family mausoleum to the royal mausoleum.

This has become a talking point, with some observers viewing the move as reflecting the Suharto clan's desire to align with royalty.

Mr Suharto was born in the hamlet of Kemusuk in Central Java – escaping a troubled childhood to become a five-star general and later, the President of Indonesia from 1967 to 1998.

"Yayasan Tien (the charitable foundation) has built the 100m-road across a valley between two mountains to connect the mausoleums," said Mr Sukirno.

Mr Suharto last visited Astana Giribangun in 2005, according to Mr Sukirno. "He was accompanied by a large entourage of family members and relatives. He would spend quiet time praying by his wife's grave," he said.

While the family mausoleum is closed to the public for now, nearby Astana Mangadeg is welcoming a stream of visitors who have to hike up a steep trail to reach the royal mausoleum. They came bearing trays of flower petals to be offered to the deceased kings, as well as generous donations for the maintenance of the mausoleum.

"Many have come to offer prayers for Pak Harto. While some prayed for his speedy recovery, others prayed for his quick death," said a cemetery keeper, referring to supporters and critics of Mr Suharto.

In Jakarta, doctors said a dangerous infection attacking the critically ill former President had subsided. But they warned that his condition could deteriorate at any time, even as he amazed many with his strong will to live since suffering multiple-organ failures a week ago.

The 86-year-old former strongman, who ruled the world's most populous Muslim nation for more than three decades, stepped down in 1998 amid bloody nationwide riots and mass pro-democracy protests triggered by the 1997 Asian economic crisis.

One of Asia's political giants, Mr Suharto retreated to his family home in a Jakarta suburb – rarely venturing outside and managing to avoid a criminal trial for corruption allegations by citing poor health.

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