Nani Farida, Banda Aceh – The clock reads 11 p.m. but residents of the capital Banda Aceh are still crisscrossing the streets. Food vendors hawk their goods and several public transportation vehicles are operating as midnight approaches.

"We remain open until 1 a.m.," said Rizal, 40, a cake vendor from West Sumatra. Rizal, who has been selling cakes in Aceh for the past 13 years, does his best business in front of the landmark Baiturrahman Grand Mosque.

He said he was able to stay open after midnight only because the imposition of martial law had improved security. "Before martial law, I had to shut at 11 p.m. Moreover, other street vendors shut early, so I just followed suit," he said.

A military operation was launched on May 19, 2003, in Aceh, where Free Aceh Movement (GAM) rebels have been fighting for independence since 1976. Martial law was declared in conjunction with the military operation and was only lifted last week, being replaced by a state of civil emergency.

Bus conductor Muhammad also said security in Banda Aceh was much better than a year ago. "That is, just over the last few months [has security improved]. Before that it was scary," he said.

Banda Aceh was previously considered a "gray area", meaning armed groups were still thought to be operating in the city. There were times when suspected GAM rebels would board buses, terrifying passengers. At other times, buses would halt as rebels and security forces exchanged gunfire.

While some residents of Banda Aceh have good things to say about martial law, many people living on the outskirts of the city feel just the opposite. They say they feel threatened by the presence of security forces, whether the Indonesian Military (TNI) or the police's Mobile Brigade. "Whether there is martial law or not, we are still treated roughly by security forces," said Husain [not his real name], a resident of Aceh Besar district.

For a time, GAM rebels were reportedly based near the outskirts of Banda Aceh. Wrongful arrests were rumored to be common in the area because security forces could not distinguish between residents and rebels. Many of those residents who were arrested returned to their families with tales of abuse while in detention.

Husain, who says he was the victim of a false arrest, claims that he was detained at a security post in Aceh Besar for a week before being released. "I was returned to my family black-and-blue and they only offered an apology," he told The Jakarta Post.

However, he said that he was fortunate to be alive. "I fear many were not as lucky as me. They [security forces] cannot tell the difference between GAM rebels and ordinary people." Those living on the outskirts of Banda Aceh say the security forces sometimes combed the area, searched their homes and beat them if they did not answer questions to their satisfaction.

TNI chief Gen. Endriartono Soetarto acknowledged recently that troops in Nanggroe Aceh Darussalam had committed hundreds of violations, including rape and selling ammunition to rebels.

Aceh martial law administration spokesman Col. Ditya Soedarsono also said recently that 139 members of the armed forces had been found guilty of various violations, including torture, since the military operation began in the province.

Residents say they are relieved if they are beaten publicly rather than being taken to a command post, where they believe they are likely to receive even worse treatment. "We just want to live in peace, but it seems so difficult," said Nurjannah, 45, a vegetable seller in Kuta Baro district.

After martial law was lifted and replaced by a state of civil emergency last week, the Acehnese can only pray that peace will return to the province as soon as possible, so that their lives can return to normal.