Banda Aceh – An Acehnese joke: Why does an Acehnese with dental problems leave Aceh to get treatment? Punchline: Because he's not accustomed to opening his mouth on his home ground.

Visitors to Aceh notice the stares the locals give them. There is more than just curiosity in those looks. Coffeeshop owner Abdullah says: "Who knows? Strangers could be intel [undercover agents]. We watch what we say in front of people we don't know. Many people have disappeared. Many corpses have turned up on the side of the road. The Indonesian military has done very evil things in the past," he said.

Beyond that, however, Mr Abdullah and many others share no affection for GAM rebels they say have become preoccupied with political ideology. If Aceh were offered a referendum on its future, Mr Abdullah, 45, says most people would opt for independence, but would not associate freedom with GAM.

The good news for Jakarta is that there is willingness in Aceh to give another chance to Indonesia and its offer of special autonomy. Mr Abdullah said: "We will accept Jakarta's rule, but only if we have more say in what happens locally. It is also important for the people to actually benefit from Aceh's wealth, which up until now has been stolen by the Indonesians."