Dean Yates and Telly Nathalia, Jakarta – More than 100,000 angry Indonesians, many carrying young children, jammed the streets of Jakarta on Sunday, shouting anti-American slogans and waving protest banners over the war in Iraq.
In the biggest street protest in the world's most populous Muslim nation since the US-led invasion began, demonstrators shouted "America, America: terrorist, terrorist" as they brought traffic to a complete halt on Jakarta's main 10-lane avenue.
The crowd initially gathered near the British embassy before marching to the heavily fortified US mission. Witnesses said more than 100,000 people, including thousands of women in white veils, took part. Organisers put the number at 250,000.
While most demonstrators were Muslims, they were joined by Christians carrying banners quoting Pope John Paul, by Catholic nuns and ethnic Chinese. Some protesters had enlarged photographs of Iraqi civilian victims around their necks. One protester wore a monkey suit with a sign that said "Bush: war criminal", referring to US President George W. Bush. Others carried fake AK-47 weapons and wore shirts bearing Iraqi leader Saddam Hussein's face.
"All the people of Indonesia, without exception, want Bush to withdraw his forces from Iraq," thundered Amien Rais, head of Indonesia's top legislature and a 2004 presidential candidate, to the crowd as they passed the United Nations building.
Added Nurcholish Madjid, Indonesia's most respected Muslim intellectual: "Peace is being destroyed by a man called Bush." Hundreds of police formed a cordon in front of the US mission. There was a heavy police presence along the route but the atmosphere was relaxed, with few officers carrying riot shields or automatic weapons. By midday, most of the crowd had dispersed.
The young wave their banners
Joko Amardi, 30, said he had brought his one-year-old daughter so she could share Muslim solidarity for Iraq's people. "This is a good lesson for her, even though she doesn't understand," Amardi said as his daughter, wearing a pink veil on her head, waved a small banner that read: "Iraq, Why, Why".
There have been daily protests across Indonesia since the war began although most have been fairly small and peaceful.
The Indonesian government and public have generally been at one in opposing the use of force to disarm Iraq, accused by the United States of possessing weapons of mass destruction.
Indonesia has been an ally of Washington in the US-led war on terror, especially after last year's bombings on the tourist island of Bali which killed 202 people, mainly foreigners. Political analysts say a long war may test that cooperation.
Indeed, many foreigners in Indonesia are on heightened alert following warnings from Western countries of possible attacks here in retaliation for the invasion of Iraq. Those fears bubbled over on Sunday morning when a car in the basement of a Jakarta apartment complex popular with expatriates exploded, prompting foreigners to evacuate the complex in panic. Police said the small blast was caused by the vehicle's air-conditioning unit and not a bomb.
Some moderate Muslim leaders also fear protests could get ugly if perceptions grow that the invasion is a war on Islam, something they have been at pains to stress is not the case.
On Sunday, many agreed the attack was not aimed at Islam. "This is not about religion, that's why I'm here," said Titi Sumbung, 66, with a Christian cross around her neck.
She was holding the hand of Sjamsiah Achmad, 70, wearing a white Muslim veil. Added Achmad: "We must uphold the values of humanity. Humanity is above religion."
[With reporting by Joanne Collins.]